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When my wife and I opened Nixta Taqueria five years ago, we didn’t know what would happen. But we knew one thing for sure: the restaurant would celebrate who we are and what food means to us.
From the start, I wanted to represent my Mexican culture. That’s why Nixta highlights an ingredient that is integral to Mexican cuisine and identity: maíz — corn.
A lot of people don’t like corn tortillas, but that’s probably because they’ve never had one that’s freshly made. I’m not a fan of store-bought corn tortillas either. No flavor.
I’ll never forget the first time I tasted a homemade corn tortilla. I was a boy visiting my grandmother in Mexico. She took me to a roadside stand where a woman ground the corn using a traditional molcajete (mortar and pestle). I wasn’t that excited, to be honest.
But then I took a bite.
That moment truly changed my life. I had never tasted something so alive with flavor.
This is the experience we aim to create for every guest at Nixta. We grow some of our corn right in our backyard, and we also source maíz from a family farmer in Oaxaca, Mexico. He grows corn the same way his parents and grandparents did before him.
Blending Mexican and Persian cultures
Nixta isn’t just about my culture. The restaurant reps my wife’s, as well.
Sara, my wife, is the daughter of Iranian immigrants. When she was growing up in Arkansas, her mother would pack her incredible Persian lunches — flavorful herb stews and saffron rice. Of course, as a kid, Sara just wanted the pizza her friends were eating. But she definitely appreciates Persian food and culture now.
Because Nixta is so personal to us, we put our cultures right on the menu. Sara and I are always shooting ideas back and forth, and we try to blend Mexican and Persian food in a way that respects both cultures.
One of our most successful creations came about during the pandemic. At first, we had only one dessert on the menu: paletas, or Mexican popsicles. One hot summer day, a takeout customer called to complain that his popsicles had melted during his long drive home.
That night, Sara and I started brainstorming more travel-friendly desserts. I proposed one of my favorites, arroz con leche, a traditional rice pudding that would work better for takeout and delivery. When I described what I envisioned, Sara said it reminded her of a Persian dish, sholeh zard.
After weeks of trial and error, we came up with a blend we were happy with. We felt like it honored both cultures while also featuring our own spin on these traditional dishes.
Only a couple of days after we put this dessert on the menu, The New York Times food reporter Priya Krishna showed up. What did she end up featuring in her article? The rice pudding.
How to share your culture authentically
Chefs and restaurant owners sometimes ask me for advice on honoring their backgrounds. Here are some tips I share:
1. Rep your culture to the fullest. Sometimes restaurateurs worry about overemphasizing their culture. Will they turn off customers? Should they appeal more broadly? I urge them not to shy away from sharing their heritage. People respond to authenticity, and they sense when you’re not leading with something meaningful to you.
Sure, once in a while a Nixta customer gets thrown off when they can’t have the grilled chicken tacos or carne asada they order at other taquerias. They might also be surprised that they’re paying a little more than they would for a traditional taco. But they usually get on board when they find out about the high-quality ingredients we use — not just homemade tortillas but also things like yellowfin tuna and duck confit. And once they taste the food? They’re hooked.
I’d never want to change our menu to be like everywhere else just so customers never encounter anything unfamiliar. In my experience, even customers who are uncertain at first enjoy being invited into a unique dining experience.
2. Don’t be afraid to add a personal spin. Being authentic to your culture doesn’t have to be a straightjacket. If you want to serve old family recipes, wonderful. But you can also remain rooted in tradition even as you come up with fresh variations. Take Nixta’s rice pudding again. We see it as a beautiful way to highlight two cultures on one plate. We draw inspiration from traditional dishes but add some exciting twists. It’s one of our most popular menu items.
3. Foster community. One of the coolest things you can do is to create a welcoming space for members of your community. It’s been so rewarding connecting with both Mexican-Americans and Iranian-Americans through Nixta. Sometimes we host events like a Persian brunch called Friendlys. It’s incredible to see the community come together, share stories, and celebrate their identity.
4. Find different ways to show authenticity. When we launched Nixta’s masa omakase, we named it after my mother. I based the menus on research into her family history, and at the dinners, I’d walk guests through this history. I loved the experience, but we realized that the stories were so personal to me that I was the only person who could present them. We’ve since adjusted the tasting menu to incorporate other team members. The omakase remains an intimate experience for our diners. We learned that authenticity doesn’t always have to come from our own stories. So many other factors shape a restaurant’s identity, including the food you source, the menu you create, and the enthusiasm you and your team bring.
At Nixta, we invite everyone to come with open minds and empty stomachs. We’re fortunate to have been honored as a Food & Wine Restaurant of the Year, but we’re not stuffy. Nixta is meant to feel like you’re eating at a friend’s house, with good food, good wine, and good fun.
By embracing your culture and your personality, you can create your own welcoming atmosphere and a memorable culinary experience, too.
