Chef and restaurateur Morgan McGlone has made his mark at restaurants large and small all over the globe, but the tiny Bar Copains, set on a sunny corner of Surry Hills, has seen instant success. Along with his business partners, Morgan works every day to tighten the processes and expand the mindset of the small but mighty operation, working consistently to transcend what is expected of the space. Here’s how he does it.
Morgy, you’ve had a very successful career in hospitality, with Bar Copains consistently enjoying a line down the block. When you and your business partners were concepting Bar Copains, what did you set out to achieve?
We’ve never been focused purely on profit at Bar Copains, and we were very mindful of price point, considering where the economy is at. This is where some operators go wrong. We wanted to create an experience that’s a combination of great service, great vibe, value for money and being a place where people can relax and have a great time. I know that’s cliche, but very few places in Sydney are considering that, and it’s really important, especially in the current economic climate. Budgets are tight. If you want to spend money you can on back-vintages of wines, but we offer price points where they can also have 2–3 glasses on a Monday or Tuesday night and it won’t kill the budget. Sydney can be quite fickle, so if we keep all these elements together, we can really keep a good steady stream of customers going.
Why do you think this particular project has been so successful, so fast?
There are four of us involved day to day with the staff, and we each bring a certain skill set that helps the business run organically. We wanted it to be a very casual place, but one that exceeds expectations. We all work hard on our core values and are at the forefront of the business, doing a little bit more every day to keep it going in the right direction. We never sit on our laurels. No one in this industry should. We spend a lot of time training the staff, making sure everyone’s doing their best.
It’s a small bar but behind the pass you’ve introduced steps that reflect the mentality of a much larger operation. Can you explain your philosophy of “cutting the tape”, where you learned it and why this is important to you?
Nathan [Sasi, Bar Copains’ Culinary Director] and I come from an era where a chef starts in Australia and then travels overseas, picking up standards that they then bring back home. Something we noticed while travelling and working is that you can tell a lot about a venue by how its kitchen is set up, and how strong its systems are. For example, for the everyday container of food or anything we put away in the fridge, we always cut, rather than tear, the kitchen tape because it shows a level of respect for the person using it and the ingredients. It just looks nicer than ripped! We’ve implemented this practice into the bar from day one because it creates a level of focus and a mindset; that you’re dialled in, you’re focused, you’re respecting your colleagues. I know a lot of kitchens don’t do it, and we’re not judgy about that, but cutting the tape is reflective of the mindset we want for our workplace. It’s a whole venue thing, too, not just a kitchen thing — so back and front of house abide by it. At Bar Copains we’re precise about how we want things done, but not in a manner that feels stiff. We’ve found that this approach actually makes staff feel more relaxed in their work environment because the system is so solid. Staff can work fluidly and have some fun within our guidelines and parameters because they know that structure is there. With no structure, staff can’t relax because they don’t know where the expectation lies.
There are a LOT of wine bars out there, how else is Bar Copains different from all the rest, in a functional sense?
Those days of offering charcuterie and olives and maybe a cheese plate aren’t what we’re going for. We’re more like a small restaurant that predominantly sells wine, in mentality and on the menu.
One of the things we changed very quickly, and that others in our position should perhaps think about, was the set menu. We found customers were ordering the set menu but wishing they had ordered other items, so we got rid of that after about eight months, and removing it didn’t change the experience at all. Everywhere else you go, big groups are forced to do set menus, but at Bar Copains it’s still a la carte even if groups are over six pax, so they can have a different experience every time they come by.
In place of the set menu, we decided to introduce a minimum spend of $85 per person for customers who book. It allows customers to spend as they wish on either food or wine, but it protects the restaurant’s revenue, and ensures bookable seats aren’t taken up by TikTokers ordering one plate and a glass of water. If customers don’t want to hit the minimum spend they can walk in (we save 50% of our seats for walk-ins), but seats aren’t guaranteed. This policy is really clear in all of our booking touchpoints, and guests have loved it and are completely respectful of it, which we’re thankful for!
You’ve mentioned you don’t want Bar Copains to be “for everyone.” Can you expand on this thinking?
Perhaps this is controversial, but an example of this mindset is that we only allow children in certain areas — either outside or at the big table out the back. Bar Copains is a small, intimate space that feels adult, and we really strive to protect this. A lot of our customers have babysitters booked and they’re spending good money. We all have kids, so we know how much this time is valued. There are so many venues that cater to everyone in Sydney, but we really wanted to hit a niche. We wanted to ensure time here feels special, no matter how long a customer is with us.
How does having a Square POS assist you guys with a smooth operation, when you’re so busy?
Square ensures our system is so smooth overall. The POS is super seamless and easy to operate. I’m 50, so I don’t have a lot of tech know-how, but I feel you have to just press a button with Square and it works. It offers an opportunity to work in all dietaries seamlessly. Even old dogs like me can pick up new tricks with it. It’s the perfect partner for a busy hospo venue.
Bar Copains is a proud Square seller. Explore more expert hospitality knowledge via our In Service series.
